Kannauj, India — Gopal Kumar, a flower grower from the sleepy town of Kannauj, demonstrated the proper harvesting time for marigolds and the unique scent of a pink rose found only in the region. For 50 years, Kumar has been contributing to Kannauj’s reputation as a producer of ittars, natural perfumes made using an ancient method called deg-bhakpa.
While Kannauj was once home to 700 distilleries, the industry began to decline after the introduction of cheap alcohol-based perfumes from the West during the late 1980s. This led to a drop in the number of distilleries to 150 to 200 by the mid-2000s.
However, a new wave of fragrance has emerged, with young Indian entrepreneurs establishing brands like Boond Fragrances to preserve and promote the traditional perfume-making traditions of Kannuaj. Boond, founded by siblings Krati and Varun Tandon, aims to make ittars more accessible to consumers who appreciate the traditional craftsmanship.
In response to the changing market, a resurgence has been seen in the demand for traditional ittar scents, with brands like Kastoor and Naso Profumi targeting younger consumers by blending traditional elements with modern nuances.
The ittar-making tradition in Kannauj dates back thousands of years, and its production is highly seasonal. The modern ittar industry has seen rapid growth, with brands like Kastoor employing a growing number of artisanal families and expanding market demand for traditional fragrances.
Despite the challenges faced by the ittar industry in the past, it is now experiencing a transformation as consumer interest in traditional fragrances continues to grow, especially in the wake of the COVID-19 pandemic.